The last town we passed in Texas, on I-40's mile-marker 0, was Glenrio, a ghost town with an interesting history. We saw, with sadness, the skeletons of a once-bustling town--a gas station, motel, convenience store, post office, and other buildings which stood in front of an abandoned section of Route 66. The town and old highway both died, like so many others on Route 66, when the Interstate opened.

After we entered New Mexico, traveling Route 66 across the vast prairie seemed to criss-cross I-40 in a ribbon of time. We dropped in and out of different eras from the world of high-speed semis and automobiles to the quiet two-lane road that meandered through rocky outcrops, adobe villages, and streams. Parts of the old highway disappeared beneath cow pastures and the Interstate, but we saw the magnificent high desert landscape with its red-hued cliffs dropping into pine-covered hills and valley from either road.

We read about our next destination in the car: the name Tucumcari is derived from the Comanche word, "tukanukaru," meaning "to lie in wait for something to approach." By the mid-19th century, the flat-topped peak nearby served as a lookout for Comanche raiders preying on cowboys driving cattle along the Chisolm and Comanchero Trails. The town of Tucumcari itself got its start in 1901 as a tent city known first as "Ragtown" and later as "Six Shooter Siding" along the Chicago, Rock Island and Union Pacific Railroad. When the railroad turned the camp into a division point in 1908, the settlement was renamed Tucumcari. By 1910, Tucumcari was a major railroad center as well as being home to more than 60 thriving businesses.

The birth of Route 66 in 1926 brought new travelers to Tucumcari by the carload. Wagon yards, livery stables, and blacksmith shops were soon replaced with gas stations, motor courts, gift shops and cafes. Known as "The City of Murals," Tucumcari has many beautiful murals.

Click here to visit Tucumcari murals and commentary by Gail Sanders, Executive Director of Tucumcari/Quay County Chamber of Commerce.

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It was a cool, stormy night when we took the exit off Interstate 40 for
Tucumcari. We drove on what was the old U.S. Route 66 through the heart of town via Route 66 Boulevard. A large number of the vintage motels, gas stations and restaurants built in the 1930s,1940s, and 1950s are still in business despite intense competition from newer chain motels and restaurants closer to the Interstate. We couldn't miss our destination with its blue and red neon illuminated against the night sky.

Our lodging for the second night of our trip was at the Blue Swallow Motel.

The original Blue Swallow Court, as it was originally called, began in 1939 when Carpenter W. A. Huggins bought several parcels of land and began construction. One year later, he and his wife became the establishment's first innkeepers. Initially the Blue Swallow had 10 rooms--two more were added in the early 1950s. The motel is L-shaped with garages between the units, some with the original wood overhead doors. The architecture is Southwest vernacular-style and the pink stucco walls are decorated with shell designs.

Floyd Redman bought the Blue Swallow in 1958 as an engagement gift for his future wife, Lillian after long-term owners/operators Ted Jones and his wife passed away. Present owner Kevin Mueller commented, "The famous neon sign was also new that year, as Lillian felt she needed a larger sign that stood out among all the neon on Tucumcari's stretch of Route 66. She also wanted to "modernize" by changing the name from "Motor Court" to "Motel"...the latest term for a roadside accommodation. At the time, it was the largest neon sign in Tucumcari, but was soon eclipsed by larger signs. We have a replica of the original 1939 Blue Swallow Court sign on the property." From the start, the Redmans put their customers first. When guests didn’t have enough money for a room, Lillian and Floyd accepted personal belongings in trade or provided the room for free. Ms. Redman and the Blue Swallow became icons of Route 66 folklore. She described the special and close connection she had with the Route 66 motorists who came in each night this way. “I end up traveling the highway in my heart with whoever stops here for the night.” In regard to the effect of Interstate 40 bypassing her town in the late 1960s, Lillian said, "When Route 66 was closed to the majority of traffic and the other highway came in, I felt I had lost an old friend. But some of us stuck it out and are still here on Route 66."

After owning the Blue Swallow for almost 40 years, Ms. Redman sold the motel in the late 1990s. The new owners, Kevin & Nancy Mueller, along with son Cameron and daughter-in-law Jessica, have done extensive restoration work. They continue to restore and maintain the Blue Swallow, while preserving the character of the buildings and tradition of hospitality for future generations to enjoy.

www.blueswallowmotel.com

After checking into the Motel, we crossed the street and had "official Route 66 photos" taken at Mother Road Old Time Photos and enjoyed dinner afterwards at a nearby restaurant, the Pow Wow Restaurant and Lizard Lounge, on their Karaoke Night. As is the custom at The Blue Swallow, we settled into the chairs outside our units before turning in, and talked about life under the glow of the neon lights.

After a restful sleep, we were up early and had the specialty of the house, Burritos, at Kix on 66, a popular Tucumcari restaurant.